Jeju Island is referred to by locals as “the Hawaii of Korea.” However, it’s a destination that stands on its own and one you should immediately get acquainted with.
With a subtropical climate and impressive features, including a dormant volcano named Hallasan, waterfalls cascading into the sea, dense green forests, and pristine beaches with crystal-clear water, Jeju Island is rightfully dubbed “the Hawaii of Korea” by locals. However, it’s a destination that stands on its own and one you should immediately get acquainted with.
Despite being the busiest air route in the world and a popular honeymoon destination (many Korean newlyweds, including my parents, embark on vacations here after weddings), and despite being designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Jeju largely remains under the radar for foreigners. In 2022, the island recorded a record 13.59 million visitors. Yet, more than 99% of them were locals.
Even less explored is the fantastic culinary landscape of the island. Although diverse and closely tied to the region’s rich natural environment, coverage of the food here has largely focused on tourist traps. However, a mix of new and older, well-deserved restaurants is expanding public perception by reinterpreting staples in fresh ways and highlighting lesser-known traditions and ingredients. Here are three establishments making Jeju Island a destination for hungry travelers from Korea and beyond.
For a Luxurious Stay and Unforgettable Meals: JW Marriott Jeju Resort & Spa
For decades, some outdated properties dominated the hotel scene in the region. Then everything changed with the eagerly anticipated opening of JW Marriott Jeju Resort & Spa in March. The thoughtful, distinctive design by Bill Bensley – known for some of Asia’s most iconic properties like the Four Seasons Golden Tented Camp Golden Triangle – pays homage to Jeju throughout, from the prominent use of yellow, a color symbolizing the earth and happiness, to the hanok-inspired lobby where you’re greeted with local peanut candies and tea. Yet, it’s the Jeju-focused culinary offerings that cement the new hotel as the island’s premier stay.
Instead of grilling black pork belly like most locals, the resort’s chef, Joon Ko, massages Korean salt into the coveted cut’s slotted skin, letting it rest in the fridge for three days. He then cooks it low and slow for three hours in a convection oven before finishing it in a wood oven. The result resembles porchetta: it’s round with meltingly tender meat, but the skin is amazingly thick, blistered, and crackles under your teeth. And to show guests what Jeju’s unique volcanic red soil beyond the usual mandarins, cabbage, and carrots can produce, Ko makes bi-weekly trips to Jeju Twins Farms, a certified organic farm owned by a couple, to source non-native products like apple cucumbers, a sweet and citrusy variety he discovered during his work in Australia.
Meanwhile, at Yeoumul, a chic omakase restaurant discreetly tucked away – its entrance is next to an elevator and marked with a small sign featuring a fox gazing into water – sushi chefs skillfully showcase Jeju’s sea bounty with delicate yet intensely flavorful courses like red tilefish broth, flash-seared abalones, and mackerel sashimi.
To Learn More About Jeju Food Culture: Sesimjae
Sesimjae, a cultural center promoting and preserving Jeju’s food culture, is not new but remains surprisingly unknown to many Jejuans and mainlanders alike. Headed by JeungSoon Koh, an 80-year-old former professor and Jeju’s second traditional food master (a title bestowed by the government), the institute encompasses a gallery, a learning center, and a kitchen.
Koh’s goal is simple: to raise awareness of Jeju’s complex culinary traditions, dispel classist misunderstandings, and ensure future generations appreciate what makes eating and drinking on Jeju so unique and remarkable. “I was once embarrassed by my food,” she recalls. “But in recent years, our reputation has shifted from poor to healthy. Our traditional food has always been advantageous because it makes the most of the natural environment, from storage to cooking methods.”
If you want to try something representative of this ethic, Koh recommends jari mulhoe. Translated as “raw fish water,” Jeju’s version of the icy soup slurped during hot summer months swaps the spicy-smoky red pepper flakes and paste used on the mainland for raw soybean paste and vinegar made from fermented barley. Since red peppers don’t easily grow in the native soil, locals have adapted with pantry staples.
For the Best Jeju Beach Picnic: 15 Degrees
WonTae Lee’s interest in charcuterie was piqued during his stints at Michelin-starred establishments in Europe and Australia. “I was fascinated by the intense flavor that can only be achieved through dry aging and fermenting meat,” he says. But it wasn’t until he wondered about the cuts of black pork typically not eaten by Jejuans.
“Most people consume black pork by simple grilling, and that’s why pork belly and neck meats – preferred for grilling – are very expensive,” he shares. “But less preferred, affordable ham meat has the same high quality and taste.”
Thus, the concept for 15 Degrees, a cafe and deli in Jeju City, which opened in October 2021, was born. Specializing in classic charcuterie with black pigs, from dry-aged French hams to various salami varieties. For an unforgettable picnic lunch, order a charcuterie board or a signature sandwich – the lavish pastrami on sourdough is a solid choice – fries, and a Korean Magpie Pale Ale to go, and head to the nearest beach. There, you can contemplate whether to tell all your friends about this magical place when you get home or keep it all to yourself.
